1. E Kya Kway
A breakfast favourite, these deep-fried breadsticks are a version of the chinese youtiao. Much like a lighter savoury donut, it is often dipped in tea or coffee and can be served with congee (rice porridge) or Myanmar’s favourite fish and noodle soup – mohinga. The story behind its paired vertical shape is inspired by a voodoo doll-like concept. During the Song Dynasty, a couple plotted to destroy a great general. As a symbolic protest against the couple, the youtiao was made into two human-shaped pieces of dough, to be deep-fried and eaten in revenge. This evolved into two rolls of dough joined at the middle, the couple hand in hand, one the husband, one the wife.
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| E Kya Kway |
2. Roti/Paratha
Myanmar lies between India and China, the historical influences of both powers are evident in the faces of its people, their customs and above all savoured in its cuisine. From the Indian side of the spectrum comes the roti. Various shapes of ghee-enriched dough are being stretched out, pounded and laid out. The round ones for the savoury mung bean paste topping, the rolls for cracking an egg in, and the twirled ones to be drizzled with sweet condensed milk. It is hot and oily and crispy and oh so good.
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| Roti/Paratha |
3. Khao Swel Thoke
When in Chinatown, eat noodles. This Burmese dish is one of the popular examples of the country’s love affair with noodles and salads. “Thoke” means salad and the definition is definitely not limited to a bowl of lettuce and tomatoes. The best of Burmese cuisine is often found in its thokes and this combination is a great introduction. Wheat noodles tossed with dried shrimps, shredded cabbage and carrots before being dressed with fried peanut oil, chillies, fish sauce, coriander and lime will leave you wanting more. A pickled mustard greens’ broth, sour and fermented, often comes on the side to balance the flavours, but don’t feel obligated to finish this one.
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| Khao Swel Thoke |
4. Mont Lone Yay Paw
Myanmar is not short on desserts and the Mont Lone Yay Paw is a close relative of many other asian desserts. It is similar to the Chinese tangyuan; or the Japanese mochi. Basically a glutinous rice flour ball with sweet filling. Here they were wrapped in banana leaf and stuffed with jaggery and grated coconut. A traditional dessert to be enjoyed during Thingyan, the weeklong Buddhist Festival during Burmese New Year, the name Mont lone yay paw was inspired by its cooking method of boiling, as it literally means “round snack on the water”.
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| Mont Lone Yay Paw |
5. Bein Mont
Ah. The crème de la crème of Burmese street snacks. At least in our opinion. No matter what you have done during the day, any day in Yangon deserves a Bein Mont. This pancake achieves chewiness, fluffiness, crispiness, nuttiness, lightness and depth at the same time. The sweet version is a glutinous rice flour pancake topped with white poppy seeds, slivered almonds and fresh coconut slices. None of the pancakes I have tried or tested during the pancake frenzy we have seen the past few years have anything on this one. This reigns when it comes to the humble cake in a pan.
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| Bein Mont |
6. Dosa (Tao Shay)
By now it is time to switch back to savoury and the dosa is another Indian trick up Myanmar’s sleeve. Originating in Southern India, the dosa is a thin crispy crepe made from a batter of rice and lentils that is allowed to ferment overnight. The fermentation process increases the nutritional benefit and the base is naturally gluten free. Our purple dosa lady ladled her batter onto a flaming iron skillet and topped the thin layer with carrots, onions, cabbage, bean sprouts, chillies, coriander and plenty of black pepper. The perfect pre-dinner snack.
